Light and Shadow, Tongue River Road

Light and Shadow, Tongue River Road

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It's hard to describe the feeling that began to possess me at about this point in the trip. It was as if painting had unlocked itself to me, and what had opened was a door that I'd suspected was there, but had never seen. Suddenly, not only did I see the door, but it opened for me, and I was invited to step in to a place where painting freedom surrounded me. 

At the same time, I began to feel that my physical self was even farther from the process than ever. I understand that this sounds a little crazy, but in my relatively short painting life, the best paintings I've made have been the ones in which I have felt like a vessel or a faucet, like a thing that art flows through, rather than a physical being who is thinking and planning and plotting with every stroke. 

This has been absolutely exhilarating, totally thrilling, and also frightening. Every morning, I've gone to the van, wondering if I'd look at the previous day's paintings and realized that I'd been duping myself, that they really weren't as good as I'd thought. I've been thankful, every morning, that the paintings have stood up. I've been frightened, every day, that I wouldn't be able to paint like this again, and again, I've been thankful, every day, that I've been able to sustain it. 

Above, my painting in the landscape. Below, the scene itself. 

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 More from the Tongue River Canyon Road

THE TONGUE RIVER runs from the Yellowstone River through Wyoming and Montana. It starts in the Big Horn Mountains, and empties into the Yellowstone at Miles City, Montana. 

According to Wikipedia, the river runs through land where bison once ruled. The watershed includes parts of the Cheyenne and Crow reservations, and the Big Horn and Custer National Forests. The river's name derives from its name in Cheyenne. 

Winter snow pack from the Big Horn Mountains feeds the river in the spring, and groundwater from springs in the drainage basin feed it in the early summer; it generally dries up in late summer. People I spoke with said that this year, rainfall has been scarce, and many of the smaller rivers and creeks have dried up. The Tongue River seemed to be flowing well, though it was not high. Fishermen I talked to said that recent rainstorms have made a big difference in river levels. 

The Tongue River figures in the history of several Native American tribes, fur traders and mining operations. It's considered a good fishing river, in many spots. 

WHILE I WAS READING about the Tongue River, I came across a list of "woman rivers" in Wyoming and Montana. 

• Hanging Woman Creek is a tributary of the Tongue River, joining at Birney, Montana.
• Crazy Woman Creek is a tributary of the Powder River - and ran alongside the road where I painted in Crazy Woman Canyon. 
• Swimming Woman Creek runs from the Snowy Mountains in Montana, into Careless Creek. 
• Dirty Woman Creek starts east of Rock Springs, Montana, and ends east of Angela, Montana. 
• Kill Woman Creek runs from Fort Peck Reservoir, draining into the Missouri River, just east of Herman Point. 

Maybe on some painting trip, I will visit all the "woman rivers" I can find!

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Dog of the Day

I met this hound, Henry, one morning outside a hotel. He was pretty interested 

in sniffing me, and all my dog and paint smells. 

Storm in Big Horn

Storm in Big Horn

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When I went back to my little spot in Big Horn, Wyoming, to finish "Remembrance of Things Past," I decided to paint the storm, partly from the photograph I'd taken, and partly from the landscape I was seeing. 

Storms out West are pretty intense. I'd imagine the same sort of thing happens when you're way out on an ocean - you can see the weather coming, clearly, for miles and miles and miles. It's fascinating, and a little scary, a little unsettling, to watch the black clouds and the downstreams of rain heading toward you. 

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Public Art in Sheridan, Wyoming

I've never seen a town with the kind of commitment to public art that Sheridan, Wyoming, has. On most of the corners of the main downtown street - and many side streets, as well - there are beautiful, fascinating, fun, lovely sculptures. They bring the downtown alive in a way I've never seen. 

According to Sheridan Public Arts, the program began with an idea and a group of interested citizens, in 1992. They wanted to create a public place for art, art fairs and the like. In 2001, the Grinnell Plaza project began, funded by donations, grants and the city. The mayor at the time, Jim Wilson, formed a public arts committee whose mission was to promote the Grinnell Plaza project, and choose works of art for it and for other parts of the city. 

The committee eventually chose eight sculptures. In the years since, a 1 percent for art optional sales tax, and ongoing funding from individuals and organizations has led to Sheridan having 59 permanent sculptures and many others that are on loan to the city and available for purchase. 

One person I spoke with said that the Mayor Wilson was absolutely obsessed with the sculpture program - and it shows. It's a delight to walk the streets and see the amazing, varied and lovely pieces of sculpture in the downtown. It bring life, vitality and richness to the downtown! Wish every downtown did it. I think I will bring the idea up in Wachapreague when I get home. 

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Dog of the Day

Here's a nice golden, behaving well in Downtown Deadwood. 

Tucked Away

Tucked Away

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I set out for Big Horn, Wyoming, after seeing a billboard advertising a western art museum there, The Brinton Museum. A guy at a fly shop in downtown Sheridan also said it was beautiful, so it seemed like a good destination, and not too far, either. AND paved roads, which was especially good, as my paintings weren't drying quickly, and were (and still are) hanging all over the inside of the van. 

Big Horn is quite lovely. Lots of big fields, rivers, bright autumn foliage. Plenty of deer, too, singularly unimpressed with the people driving by them. 

I found a quiet spot to set up, and went to work. I love the way this little cabin is tucked away into the trees, and how the yellows and golds and oranges glowed in the overcast morning. I finished this painting, and started a second one, and I could see the storm moving in. The temperature fell, the sky darkened, and I could rain headed toward me. I packed everything up just in time, and sat in the van. Rain turned to a downpour, then to hail, and it was clear that it wasn't going to let up soon, so I set off for the museum,  just down the road. 

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Brinton Museum

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THE BRINTON MUSEUM was a wonderful experience! I was one of two visitors, so I felt like it was a private showing, which made it even more special.

I saw wonderful Western art by Frederic Remington and Charles Russell, whom I've heard of, and amazing portraits - many in crayon - by a painter named Winold Reiss, whom I'd never heard of. 

The 35 portraits in the museum were all of  Blackfeet tribe members, and were arresting and beautiful and fascinating. And different! 

Reiss was born in Germany, and came to the US in 1913. He wanted to dedicate his art career to painting Native Americans, and spent a large portion of his life living and painting in the Blackfeet Confederacy in Montana. To learn more about him, click here.

The museum also had a great collection of art and artifacts - head dresses, saddle blankets, clothing, bags and more - made by the Plains Indians. These were absolutely amazing! And there was a big collection of photographs by William Henry Jackson, as well. 

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Fly Shop of the Bighorns

It's been a while since I've been fishing, but when I did it, I loved it. I almost brought my fly rod, but I really needed to be painting, not fishing, sigh... Peter is a wonderful fisherman, and so when I saw this shop, I thought I should go in. 

It was a beautiful place, and the owner, above left, introduced me to his best fly-tier, above, right, and talked him into giving me some flies. Fun! Also, the owner would like to sell some of my paintings in the shop, so that's exciting - and also a good excuse to visit Sheridan again. 

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Dog of the Day

I was in a Starbucks in Sheridan when this woman came in and got a puppaccino for her dog. I asked it I could take a photo, and she invited me to pet him. She told me he loves his puppaccinos (basically whipped cream in a cup) and helps her navigate through her days. She was not completely blind, but very sight-impaired. They visit Starbucks almost every day. 

Afternoon, Crazy Woman Canyon Road

Afternoon, Crazy Woman Road

Oil on black canvas, 20x20

I'd already made two paintings out near Crazy Woman Canyon, and I was tired. But I came to this scene on the road back to Buffalo, and I had to paint it. The October afternoon light was absolutely golden. The big tree at the side of the road simply glowed. The yellows, oranges and browns were as rich as anything I'd ever seen, and so I stopped and set up and went to work. 

My fatigue vanished as I painted. Cars drove by, birds flew along, a dog ran down a driveway, and all of it was just a hum, a quiet background noise drowned by the intense beauty I was seeing. With light like this, you have to paint fast. You have to be focused and certain and speedy, or the resplendent afternoon will fade into early dusk and take the colors and the glow with it. 

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From Buffalo to Sheridan

 The day was overcast and threatening, and it seemed like a good time to head north, hard as it was to leave the beautiful Buffalo area. I'd been thinking of heading into the mountains, but the weather experts said that what was rain at this elevation would be snow higher up. So I took the flat road to Sheridan and enjoyed the drive.

Above, a camper that sheepherders use. This is the traditional shape of the camp wagon; we used to see them often when we lived in Idaho. I found an interesting page detailing the history and attitudes of the times toward sheepherders. Click here to check it out.  

Happily, the day cleared as I drove along. 

Not all of Wyoming is incredibly beautiful. You might have to click on this and make it larger to see it, but it's either a burgeoning junk yard, or a hoarder's vibrant metal-based creation... 

Really? Tesla charging station at my hotel in Sheridan. It was not an expensive hotel, and I didn't see one Tesla, though I stayed there for three days. 

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Dog of the Day

Saw this serious guy in Buffalo, making sure no one bothered his truck.